Allyson got to the Internet cafe in Shashemene and was able to do a couple of things before succumbing to what I’ve come to refer to as AGD (African Gastrointestinal Distress). I’ve only been there once, but it finally hit me on the day I was flying home. So I understand what she’s going through. And still the fleas persist. She writes: 

Have put flea powder and flea spray all over my room and bed. They woke me up about 5 times last night chewing on me.  I really thought I was going to lose it.
But she’s hanging in there. Word is that they are beginning to make a real dent in the malnutrition wave that was caused by a horrible spring drought, which happened just as world food prices were spiking. Allyson saw the picture of the feeding center where she worked, which was shot on Sept. 3, about a week before she got there, and said she hasn’t seen lines that long since she arrived. Good news.
And she is very appreciative of all the nice comments all of you have left on the blog. In fact, she posted her own comment on the “Fleas” post, just to tell all of you thanks. Check it out.

The latest e-mail from Allyson came in on Friday morning. And bless her heart, she has fleas. I’ll let her tell you the details:

When I arrived all the females who work in the feeding centers were complaining about fleas, and they warned me they would eventually get me and they were right.  They have feeding times, I think, and I think that they hop off of the people and the various animals that hang around the feeding centers, goats, scroungy dogs, the odd chicken.

At least she’s staying in a place where she can take a hot shower every day. Even after all her time in Darfur four years ago, she says, she was still unprepared to see the filthy living conditions that many people in Africa have to endure. “I still can’t believe they live in houses made of sticks and mud,” she writes.

So today, when you’re watching football on TV, look at the floors beneath you, the walls around you and the ceilings above you and be grateful. You are among the fortunate.

Not much else to report, but let’s send Allyson good wishes. Let’s hope that the Gods of Itching have mercy on her.

I know it’s been a while since the last update, but the reason is pretty simple: We’re not getting much information to share with you. It’s not Allyson’s fault, and it’s not mine. We’re both trying. But communication has proven to be much more difficult than we anticipated — or than AT&T Wireless promised it would be. The problem described in the last post persists: We’re stuck with Allyson using a pay-as-you-go cell phone that allows only about two minutes of conversation at a clip. 

We’re learning to say a lot very quickly, and we’re learning that saying bye before the time runs out feels better than getting cut off before you can say it.

Both of us, as you might imagine, are frustrated by this. But I expect that she is way more frustrated than I am. I have the luxuries of home, and the ability to talk to friends and family whenever I want, but she doesn’t. So we’re trying to remedy this problem: We’ll keep beating on various phone companies until we make something happen that makes it easier for Ally to talk to me and her family and her friends when she feels like it.

The good news is that she’s found a couple of internet access spots in Shashemene, so the e-mail is coming with some frequency, and she’s grateful to everyone who’s posted comments. She sends her love to all y’all. 

In an e-mail on Tuesday, she offered this description of her typical day:

Where Allyson works every day

Where Allyson works every day

 

 

“Every morning I take the van with the staff out to the feeding center. It’s a beautiful drive through some very green and dramatic views where you can see forever. The rift valley is not far away.  On the trip I see loads of cows and goats, often herded by little tiny boys, hundreds of donkeys and horses hitched to makeshift carts. Often the donkeys are hooked up three in a row.”

This daily drive takes her to a feeding center in a town that I won’t name here, in an effort to adhere to MSF policy. But when I got the name of the town from her, I Googled it, and the first thing that came up was a photograph of the center where she’s working.

She tells me that the lines aren’t quite as long these days as they were when this shot was taken. A fall harvest holds out hope that the malnutrition problems there will lessen somewhat. This is from MSF’s latest “Month in Focus” article:

These families, who are already very poor, have been without food for many months. They have got into debt to feed themselves and some have even sold their livestock. The next harvest, expected between late September and November depending on the area, should finally provide relief. 

Let’s hope they’re right. I read this, and I can’t help but think how, here in Atlanta, we’ve suffered from drought for a good while. What does this mean to our way of life? Not much more than the fact that we can’t water the roses in the front yard when we want to … or that the dock at the lake you visit on the weekends isn’t floating anymore but sitting on dry land. 

It never means that we have to change our lives dramatically. It never means for us that our children’s lives are placed in danger. 

I don’t say this to praise Allyson’s efforts. She’d kick my ass if that was my motive. As she’s pointed out before, she didn’t go there to win my praise or anyone else’s. She went because she felt like it was the right thing for her to do. Simple as that. But we all should remember how fortunate we are. We might have a hard time finding gas to fill the tank right now. But we’re having no trouble finding food and clean water. 

It’s amazing how the same weather can blow across two different lands and leave one land’s people in grave danger and the other land’s people merely annoyed.

She made it. 

I’m sorry for the delayed post on this. I’ve been up in Michigan with my friend Vinny over the weekend. We had a great time, and Vinny … well, Vinny is just one of the best people alive.

I was in Chicago on business earlier in the week — there Wednesday night and Thursday night. While I was in bed on Thursday night, maybe 2 a.m. Chicago time/10 a.m. Ethiopia time, Allyson called to let me know that she had made it to Addis Ababa and had gotten the most sleep she’d managed since her departure. She was excited because she was about to go out and buy a cell phone because they actually have cell phone coverage in Shashemene.

An hour and a half later, she woke me up again (and please, don’t think this makes me mad, because anytime your wife is away for two months in the third world, you’re always happy to hear her voice), and very happily told me she had her own cell phone number. “I’ll be able to call you anytime I want,” she said. She told me to go back to sleep and told me she’d talk to me later in the day. 

Around lunchtime in Chicago, I was at O’Hare, waiting for Vinny to arrive from Atlanta so we could drive over to Gull Lake in Michigan, and Allyson called again to say she had made it, finally, to Shashemene. The call dropped after about 90 seconds. I tried to ring her back and could only get a message saying, “Your call did not go through. Please try again.” Ally didn’t call back, and I learned why when she called the next day. It’s a pay-as-you-go phone, and evidently, she has to buy new SIM cards to add minutes. The biggest denomination SIM card she can find right now is US$5. That’s enough for plenty of minutes if you’re calling folks in Ethiopia, I guess, but when you’re calling the U.S., it’s about two minutes. She’s going to look for higher-denomination cards, but hasn’t found them yet.

Saturday was her first day in the field, and it affected her pretty deeply. Seeing malnourished children begging is tough to handle, and it was pretty upsetting to her. She’ll acclimate, as she did last time, I’m sure. But right now, it’s hard for her. So please post a few comments. Let her know she has our love and support. Soon, I expect, she’ll have figured out a way to check the Internet in Shashemene, and she’ll be able to look at what you’ve told her. 

More to come …

Sha-she-me-ne.

No. It’s not a nonsense line for background singers. Not like rama-rama-ding-dong, or pa-pa-ooo-mow-mow. It’s the name of a city of almost 100,000 people in Ethiopia, south of the nation’s capital of Addis Ababa. And it’s where Allyson will live during her two months in Africa. She’ll stay with other Doctors Without Borders team members there and essentially commute to feeding centers in small villages in the Shashemene area.

Shashemene has an interesting history, as you can read about in detail in this New York Times piece from about seven years ago. Haile Selassie, the last emperor of Ethiopia and the man considered God by Rastafarians, granted Jamaica’s Rastafarians land in Shashemene many years ago. And the city is considered holy by the today’s Rastas. 

Those of you who know her pretty well (or those who listened to the recent podcast we did together — and if you didn’t, well, now you should) know of her fondness for reggae. So she should feel a little bit at home in Shashemene.

Of course, we’ve got to wait for word about the accommodations. Right now, as I write, she is in the air, flying from Europe to Addis Ababa.

We’ll keep you posted as more word comes in.

Thanks to Hurricane Hannah, Allyson spent a very bumpy flight to London last night. She had a few hours’ layover at Heathrow, then flew on Brussels and promptly checked into her room and crashed for a few hours, owing to an almost sleepless flight over the Atlantic.

She has the evening off tonight in Brussels. She’s about to head out for dinner right now. Just talked to her. She has a full day of briefing in Brussels tomorrow, then will leave for Africa tomorrow night. 

We’ll keep you posted on her progress.

Welcome to The Ally Report: Ethiopia.

It looks different, but the purpose is the same. For those of you who were on board for the last ride back in 2004, you’ll remember The Ally Report. We’ll leave that site up for posterity, but we’re going to do the work in blog software this time. It’s easier to use — and it has the added benefit of allowing all of you to comment on each post. That means, on the rare occasions when Allyson will have Internet access, she’ll be able to check to see what guys are saying. (If you want to post a comment, all you have to do is hit the “No Comments” link above the post you want to comment on.) 

The text of this post (or at least the important contextual information) will remain at the top of the blog. To revisit it, just click on “The Basics About This Blog.”

Right now, it’s Saturday night, and she’s packing. Lighter this time. She’s learned a thing or two. She leaves tomorrow afternoon on a flight to New York. One day of briefing in New York, then a flight Monday night to Brussels. A couple days of briefings in Brussels, then on to Ethiopia.

We’ll keep you posted.